"Know-how must serve emotion, not technicality itself"Christophe Moret, chef du goût
This cook of many experiences and influences, saucier and rotisseur, is concerned to say the least by the central role of vegetables. He demands a French gastronomy that's alive and well. In other words: uninhibited and open to the world. "History shows us that our cuisine has always been marked by cross-fertilization, so why should we be tempted to freeze it, to focus on an excess of technique rather than seeking out emotion? The desire to create links, to provoke surprise and excitement, is perhaps the best tribute we can pay to French gastronomy. It's a way of ensuring that it will be around for generations to come. It also crosses borders, with gourmets from all over the world.\nChristophe Moret strives for the very best, for exemplary taste and quality. The product comes first. Faithful to his suppliers to guarantee a cuisine as close as possible to the (micro) seasons and their ripeness, he sources the finest local produce, as with his foie gras feuille à feuille, made with mushrooms from nearby quarries. Attentive to his customers' needs, but without any injunctions or prohibitions, he is ready to draw on his travel memories to find the detail that will make all the difference. It's no secret that Christophe Moret has turned his taste for Asia into an inspiration. He draws much of his modernity from it, for example, with his caviar sea urchin in a bonito nage, smoked kombu and his famous Chawanmushi, which is a royal classic worthy of Edouard Nignon, but without the butter and cream, with an umami and lightness worthy of today's much sought-after cuisine. "Having fun and renewing yourself doesn't mean spreading yourself too thin. On the contrary, being daring requires a thorough knowledge of one's products and openness to others". All the more reason for the man who loves iodine, acidity and anything that keeps you from going round in circles, to cook his own condiments such as leek-leek, lemon-kumquat, button mushrooms-Shitaké... ". I prefer the taste of cooking in a casserole and taking risks, rather than high-tech cooking. Instead of sous-vide cooking, I prefer to preserve fish at low temperature, cook vegetables in papillotes and roast a pigeon directly on the carcass. It's also a matter of putting back into the dining room the carving of a lobster in a cocotte lutée, or offering two vegetarian dishes, with the complicity of the whole team. A good restaurant is inevitably a joint effort, in the eyes of this good-natured Chef, with a teasing eye and a frank, generous smile, who is keen to establish a dialogue between the brigades, the sommelier and the dining room... While the latter must know every plate on the tip of its tongue, it is encouraged to exchange ideas with the producers. As for the sommelier, he or she is invited to taste each dish beforehand, in order to suggest the optimum pairing from among the 1,000 champagne references.